In a world moving at a breakneck pace and with constantly shifting trends, there are flavors within Greek tradition that stand unshakeable against time, acting as living bridges connecting the past with the present. One of the most characteristic examples of this gastronomic and cultural endurance is the Syros loukoumi. A small, seemingly simple sugary cube that, nevertheless, encapsulates centuries of history, refuge, toil, art, and deep tradition.
Through the revealing accounts of traditional loukoumi maker Ntina Sykoutri in her interview with Greek Reporter, who continues with unwavering passion and dedication the family craft in the historic workshop of Syros, the multidimensional aspects of a history that became entirely intertwined with the birth and rise of an entire place unfold.
From Smyrna and Chios to the Copper Cauldrons of Ermoupolis
The genealogical and historical starting point of the Syros loukoumi is chronologically placed in 1822, immediately following the tragic destruction of Chios, while shortly after, in 1824, the destruction of Psara followed. Refugees from these islands, seeking a safe place to settle, turned toward Syros. Knowing almost since antiquity the strategic importance of the island as the most central and safest port of the Mediterranean capable of hosting ships from all the then-world, they sought refuge on its shores.
Right where the imposing town hall of Ermoupolis stands today, initially there was absolutely nothing—”not a stone upon a stone”. The refugees began to build their first humble little houses around the port with whatever materials were available at the time. In the courtyards of these makeshift homes, they constructed fireplaces. Over these fireplaces, with the progression of time and the evolution of conditions, they placed copper cauldrons and created the first Syrian loukoumia.
As Ms. Sykoutri points out, the Chian artisans brought with them the knowledge and traditional materials:
The unique Chios mastic, which does not exist anywhere else in the world.
Rose sugar, made with the 100-petaled rose kneaded with sugar, just as it continues to be made today.
The choice Chios almond, which is sweeter than the other almonds of our land.
These materials already had a history from the 17th century, when Chian confectioners making loukoumi in Constantinople and Smyrna had developed this art, and thus the famous rahat loukum was served inside the seraglio and at every celebration.
Some believe that the Turkish word for the sweet, “lokum,” derives from the Arabic “al-lukum,” which means “morsel” or “mouthful,” while others argue it comes from the Arabic phrase “rahat al-hulqum,” or “throat comfort.”
The magic of the confection, of which are found in Greece, Cyprus, and Turkey, but also throughout the Balkans, the Middle East, and North Africa, comes from its flavor and gelatinous texture.
Ermoupolis and the Syros loukoumi were born together, like “twin brothers from the same parents,” gradually progressing and spreading their fame beyond the borders of Syros, reaching Greece and wherever else possible.
Global Laurels and Social Life
This small sweet did not take long to achieve international recognition. In 1850, at the first world food exhibition in Paris, the Syros loukoumi—along with the halvadopita, another product whose name was visited by the loukoumi—won the first global award. Since then, through commercial trade routes, it has reached the ends of the earth, traveling to Oceania, Australia, North and South America, Japan, Europe, and everywhere else.
At the same time, the loukoumi plays a decisive role in social life from the very moment it was produced. From 1822 until today, in engagements, weddings, births, baptisms, deaths, memorials, receptions, and daily festivals, it continues to behave in the exact same way, becoming one with the social life of Syros.
A major milestone occurred in 2019, when the Syros loukoumi entered the national intangible cultural heritage list with the help and effort of the Ministry of Culture’s Department of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Now, this small cube, which hides within it the entire history of this city, has reached the highest point a sweet can reach to represent an island, a city, and a country.
The Ritual of Production: A 100% Handmade Art
In the last traditional workshop left in Syros, production remains faithful to the old ways, using only three ingredients: water, sugar, and starch.
The Boiling: The ingredients are placed in a copper cauldron and continuously stirred for two hours—formerly with a wooden spoon, now with an agitator. Just before taking it down from the fireplace, the desired color and flavor are added to shape the taste, all using natural materials.
The Cooling: Upon being taken down from the fire, the mixture is emptied onto a wooden baking sheet lined with flour. Flour is the only material that prevents the loukoumi from sticking and allows it to cool and be cut into pieces within 24 hours.
Cutting and Packaging: After those 24 hours, pieces of the loukoumi are transferred to a workbench covered with icing sugar, which is freshly cut and ground every day from crystal sugar into loukoum-powder. The master craftsman uses large knives to cut it into cassettes of square loukoumia or bite-sized pieces mixed with all types, placed in paper boxes lined with special thin paper, and then wrapped in cellophane using a natural starch-and-water glue with zero chemicals. Everything inside the workshop is done entirely by hand.
With the fourth generation now running the traditional workshop, the legacy established in 1822 lives on. The Syros loukoumi remains the ultimate sweet ambassador of Greece and an extraordinary product that continues to sweeten the world with its rich history and peerless craftsmanship.
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