Santorini’s wine production has dropped sharply after three years of drought and record heat, with grape harvests falling from 2,756 tons in 2022 to about 551 tons last year, according to local winemakers.
The Greek island, known for its volcanic soil and its Assyrtiko grape, is now facing water shortages and rising costs that threaten its centuries-old industry.
Winemaker Yiannis Boutaris, who runs Domaine Sigalas, part of the Kir-Yianni group of wineries, said in an interview with Reuters that one of the region’s century-old vines had recently shriveled up after about 90 years. The vine was shaped in the traditional kouloura style, a basket-like form used for generations to shield grapes from strong wind and intense sun.
According to Boutaris, the lack of rain on Santorini combined with decreased cultivation has caused many old vineyards to die off in recent years, and his winery is trying to adapt amidst wine production industry changes rather than abandon tradition.
Drought pushes up Santorini wine production costs
The drop in supply has pushed grape prices in up, and winemakers are now paying farmers about ten euros per kilogram (about five USD per pound) of Assyrtiko grapes, a price close to rates paid in France’s Champagne region.
In northern Greece, where conditions are cooler, a kilogram sells for about 80 cents (36 cents per pound). Stefanos Koundouras, a viticulture professor at Aristotle University in Thessaloniki, said Santorini saw its hottest days in sixty years in 2023 and 2024.
According to Koundouras, wine growing across the Mediterranean could become harder to sustain if heat and drought continue, while the quality and character of the wines are already being affected.
Winemakers turn to new irrigation methods to survive
To address the shortage, Boutaris is testing a pilot project with local authorities and scientists to irrigate vineyards with treated wastewater from homes and hotels, a method also utilized in California. He is also testing vines planted in rows for more efficient watering, along with atmospheric water harvesting, which relies on solar-powered hydrogels to draw moisture from the air.
Winemaker Yiannis Papaeconomou said he plans to join the wastewater project for his six-year-old vines. He has also adopted underground irrigation to cut down on evaporation and trellising to make watering more efficient. Growers, he said, need new approaches to keep producing wine on the island.
Santorini’s water supply faces added strain each summer, when millions of tourists compete with farmers and hotel operators for limited resources, deepening the pressure on the island’s wine production industry.
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