A unique floating village of fishermen’s huts has developed in the Axios Delta, which serves as a sanctuary for the mussel farmers of the Halastra Municipality, operating under its own distinct rhythm. Born out of the necessity for survival, the settlement has evolved over the years into an organized community of stilt houses and moored boats. It serves as both a launching pad and a safe harbor for the fishermen of the Thermaic Gulf, providing a place to rest and store their equipment.
Each of these floating huts is typically shared by four professionals and is divided vertically into two sections. Standing side-by-side, they create the illusion of floating directly on the water. Outside, fishermen tie up their boats and store their gear, while some have converted the interiors into living spaces with kitchens, creating comfortable living conditions. Notably, mussel farming in the Halastra area drives Greece’s domestic market, accounting for roughly 85% of the country’s annual production.
Mussel farming in the Axios Delta is a grueling process
“My great-grandfather and grandfather came here from Smyrna as refugees,” Stavros Giagias, a fourth-generation fisherman, tells Greek Reporter.
“They were fishermen. They initially went to Krini but came here to fish. My grandfather met my grandmother, they married, and he settled in Halastra. My father grew up here, and so did I. This is where I live.”
There are 30 huts in total, lined up in a row in the Axios Delta, right where the river meets the Thermaic Gulf. They were built between 2000 and 2001 by a contractor, which is why they all look identical. They were distributed the fishermen who paid them off over time.
“This area is known for mussel farming. We only have a small production; our main focus is fishing. I’m probably the youngest person here dealing with mussels, and I just do it to supplement my income. It’s hard work—mussel farming is a grueling process,” Giagias says.
“We collect the spat (mussel larvae) when they spawn, sell the mature, marketable mussels, and then nurture the spat until it grows. It’s a continuous cycle. The breeding season runs from December to February. We collect the eggs using special ropes woven between the mature mussels where the spat clings. At first, it looks like slime or mud. Then the mussel begins to form, initially the size of a pinhead, and grows from there,” he tells Greek Reporter.
Giagias tells Greek Reporter that most people in the floating village make their living from mussel farming and those who stick strictly to fishing can be counted on one hand.
The Greek fisherman takes great pride in showing visitors traditional net fishing techniques and how he uses ntavoulia (traditional fish traps). Since spearfishing is banned in the Thermaic Gulf, guests get a true taste of local heritage instead. Visitors can either help him haul in the nets and see how the fish are untangled, or try their hand at line fishing with a rod. Afterward, whatever is caught is transformed into a fresh seafood feast, perfectly paired with local wine or tsipouro.
“In the past, this place had everything—an incredible abundance and variety of fish,” he reflects. “But in recent years, the sea has been growing poorer. Still, depending on the season, we manage to catch sole, cuttlefish, octopus, sea bass, sea bream, and grey mullet. I even make avgotaraho (bottarga) from the mullet roe. I only produce it in limited quantities—just for our family and as a special treat for guests who come by for a bite.”
The Axios Delta near Thessaloniki
The delta’s geology is fascinating. About 24,000 years ago, the Thermaic Gulf was dry land, drained by the Axios, Gallikos, Aliakmon, and Moglenitsas rivers. Around 18,000 years ago, during the Holocene epoch, melting glaciers caused sea levels to rise. Seawater flooded northward, submerging the Thermaic basin and the plains of the Thessaloniki-Giannitsa basin right up to the foothills of the mountains. In the 5th century BC, cities like Skydra and Pella were coastal towns.
The four-river delta evolved rapidly due to shifting river mouths and heavy sediment accumulation. The Axios and Gallikos rivers formed a vast delta between Thessaloniki and Giannitsa, nearly cutting the northern gulf in half. Over a few centuries, the deltas of the Axios, Gallikos, and Aliakmon merged to create new land. This interior area initially became a brackish lagoon and eventually turned into a marsh after being cut off from the Thermaic Gulf. This gradual process formed the alluvial Lake Giannitsa (or Lake Loudias).
Modern human intervention in the early 20th century reshaped the area into what it is today. Major hydraulic and land reclamation projects took place between 1929 and 1936, including the construction of drainage canals and embankments. This created vast tracts of land for agriculture and livestock, while irrigation networks boosted local farming.
The most critical projects were the diversion of the lower Axios River and the draining of Lake Giannitsa. The Axios was rerouted from its natural course to prevent silt from blocking the Port of Thessaloniki, keeping it open. Lake Giannitsa was drained via a large artificial canal named after the old Loudias River, while the Moglenitsas River was diverted to empty into the Aliakmon.
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